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Project: 'Troy's Arcade' - Scratch Build Mini-ITX MAME... Page 3

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    I marked a sheet of .220" 18x24 Optix acrylic for cutting, it will become the top most panel and control panel.  I also marked the side panel scrap piece that will be jigsaw cut to become a center brace for the control panel.

    Below shows my front porch/work area.  The chair closest to the corner has the top acrylic piece with a length of Alum-Angle double side taped and clamped onto it with my Mouse sander sitting next to it.  Clamped down Alum angle and the sander work great for straightening screwy jigsaw cuts.

    The following picture shows the top piece and control panel test fit... it let me know that I need to make some minor adjustments to a few pieces of Alum-Angle to make things fit together correctly.

    I installed the center brace beneath the control panel and positioned paper templates for the buttons and joysticks layout, I also marked out the Matrix Orbital display location.

    The hole saw kit is a $6.99 Harbor Freight special, it had the two sizes I needed and they cut holes in acrylic pretty good, well worth seven bucks anyway.  Below shows the nearly finished control panel, it still needs a bit more filing before I can prep it for paint and final assembly.

    I determined placement of the X-Arcade BYO Arcade controller board, filed down all the hole edges and dropped in both joysticks and sixteen buttons just to get an idea of where I'm at.  I'm excited, it looks (exactly like my SketchUp design) and feels like an actual arcade machine.

    I cut all the pieces of acrylic needed to finish the outer casing and put it all together for a test fit... I still have to cut the speaker holes, but after that it'll be ready for masking and painting.

    In the following picture you can see that I cut the legs/stands off the speakers and marked their position onto the acrylic, now it's time to cut some speaker holes... to do this I will once again be using my handy $7 Harbor Freight hole saw kit.

    Ok, speaker holes are cut and filed, below is a test fit.  After I vinyl dye the acrylic sheet I plan to use some Weld-On 16 to permanently attach both speakers onto it.

    I had to figure out a way to keep the monitor from shifting around inside the cabinet, I considered cheesing out and just running wood screws through the base, but I really didn't want to have to modify the monitor... below is what I came up with.

    The monitor is held firmly in place by the three pieces of alum-angle and the front of the monitor base presses tightly against the control panel support brace I made.  Doing it this way makes it easy to remove or replace the monitor if needed.

    I used aluminum binding posts and plastic spacers to mount the motherboard and power supply to the back Alum-Angle, the IDE CF card was similarly mounted onto the plywood base using wood screws.

    I decided to make the back panel out of pressboard because it's cheaper than acrylic and nobody will see it anyway.  Below shows where I plan to install a 120mm fan that will be temperature controlled by the Matrix Orbital.  

    I cut my holes, assembled it all and then gave the back a couple coats of black spray paint, below shows the test fit.

    I cut lengths of adhesive Velcro and placed them on the back framework and back panel, I figured Velcro was simpler and more forgiving than screws and it works great.

    I drilled holes for both the power connector and the power button and also cut a couple USB ports into the bottom Alum-Angle, below shows everything installed.

    I masked and prepped all of my acrylic pieces... too bad the sun went down before I could coat them with black vinyl color.

    I spray painted a bunch of washers with black enamel and then transferred them to a paper plate to dry.

    The next picture shows all of my acrylic vinyl colored black and ready for assembly.

Project: Troy's Arcade - Page 4

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